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MULTI-MILLION DOLLAR PEARLS? Cultured pearls are commanding record prices around the world. Today, a simple pearl necklace can easily cost more today than a diamond! Despite the cost, however, some are not what they appear, and at current prices, anyone shopping for pearls needs to know something about what they are buying in order to avoid a very costly mistake. Walk into any jewelry store from Tiffany to Zale’s, and the prices on cultured pearl necklaces will probably astound you. Although you can see pearl necklaces for as little as a few hundred dollars or less, when it comes to the round,white pearls for which most woman yearn, even a simple, short necklace of moderately small pearls can easily cost $4,000. “This is twice as much as the average spent on an engagement ring today!” says gemologist Antoinette Matlins, pearl expert and author of The Pearl Book, 4th Edition: The Definitive Buying Guide (GemStone Press / Quality Paperback Original / $19.99). “And a necklace of large, luminous white “South Sea” pearls—the most regal of pearls—can cost millions,” she continues, pointing out that even at auction, exceptionally fine cultured pearl necklaces have fetched prices well over $2,000,000! This is the most exciting time ever for anyone yearning for beautiful pearls because there are more types of pearls than ever before. Whether the budget is a few hundred dollars, a few thousand, or a million, there is a pearl to meet every style and every budget, in every size, color and shape. As Matlins explains, pearls are now being produced in many parts of the world, in several varieties of mollusk, which is why there are different types. “In a way, each different type of pearl is really a different gem, produced by different varieties of oysters, in differing geographic conditions, and they are as different from one another in terms of appearance, rarity, and value as rubies are from sapphires,” she points out. With so many shimmering choices, and such a wide range in cost, one must also be very wary when buying pearls because they may not be what they appear. There are many very poor quality pearls being dumped in the US market; these will quickly deteriorate into worthless shell beads. “Today, you can spend thousands of dollars on fine pearls, but you can spend an equal amount on inferior quality pearls that won’t last; that won’t be pearls by year’s end!” Matlins warns. To better understand what is happening, one should understand what a “cultured” pearl is. While natural pearls are all “pearl,” cultured pearls have a round shell bead at the core, implanted within the oyster by technicians to stimulate the oyster to produce layers of the pearly substance over the core. When the beads remain in the oyster for the proper length of time — several years is ideal —the result can be an exquisite gem that will last from generation to generation. But many pearls now entering the United States have stayed in the oyster for less than six months. The result: pearls that won’t last. With pearls ranging in price from hundreds of dollars to millions, how does one guard against a costly mistake? “The most important thing to look for in pearls is intense luster—the bright, reflective glow that dances across the pearl’s surface,” advises Matlins. “While there are other factors that affect their rarity and cost, lustrousness is your best assurance that your pearls have been inside the oyster long enough to have a thick pearl coating that will stand the test of time,” she explains, “while low luster— which looks chalky, dull, and lifeless — usually indicates that the pearl coating is too thin and will soon peel off, leaving nothing but the inexpensive shell beads used to start the whole “pearl” process!” In Matlins’ opinion, buying chalky, dull, low-luster pearls is throwing money away. The cost of pearls also depends upon other quality factors—color, shape, size, surface perfection, and matching —and rarity. “Learn as much as you can about the type of pearl you like best—including where it is produced, and how rare the variety is—and then develop your eye to spot quality differences,” she suggests. “Luckily,” she laughs, “unlike diamonds and other gems, you can quickly learn to see differences that affect the cost of pearls!” Finally, before buying pearls, learn as much as you can about them, and visit several fine jewelers who can help you understand and see the important differences. When buying pearls, it is particularly important to select a reputable jeweler who will stand behind the product sold, one who really knows pearls and understands the important differences. Knowledgeable jewelers will also offer a wider selection of different types, shapes, and colors. “Then, no matter what type, color, or size of pearl you like best, be sure to select the most lustrous you can find,” smiles Matlins, adding “then the pearls you choose will give you lasting beauty and pleasure, and become a treasured heirloom for generations to come.” ###
The Pearl Book, 4th Edition: The Definitive Buying Guide(6" x 9", 240 pp., 16 pages in beautiful color, more than 250 color and b/w illustrations, Quality Paperback Original, ISBN 0-943763-54-5, $19.99) and all of Antoinette Matlins’ books are available from retail bookstores, amazon.com, GIA, Kassoy, Rubin, Grobet, and other jewelry supply houses, or directly from GemStone Press, P.O. Box 237, Woodstock, VT 05091. Tel: (802) 457-4000, Fax: (802) 457-4004, www.gemstonepress.com. For credit card orders, call (800) 962-4544. Add $3.95 shipping and handling for the first book, $2.50 each additional book.
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